Living in Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Are you wondering what living in Puerto Madero is like? I think Puerto Madero is one of the most polarizing neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. Some don’t understand it while others love living there.
In this article, I want to share with you my experience of what living in Puerto Madero is like. I hope if you’re deciding what neighborhood to live in, this will help you know if Puerto Madero is right for you.
I’ve divided this into sections so be sure to scroll through the whole thing so you don’t miss any information that could be important to you.
Let’s talk about all things Puerto Madero!
Brief History
From the late 1800’s, Puerto Madero was a port area for large cargo ships. It was used that way for over a hundred years until in the 1990’s when the government decided to urbanize and develop the area. With renewed local and foreign investments, old shipping warehouses were refurbished into pricey real estate for fancy restaurants and shops. And luxury hotels and condo buildings began sprouting up across once barren swamp land.
Urbanization efforts of Puerto Madero attracted international architects and business people interested in investing in global real estate. Years later, the real estate in Puerto Madero is among the most expensive in the city of Buenos Aires. Today Puerto Madero also houses corporate buildings for YPF and ICBC just to name a few. And the neighborhood is a favorite among young professionals and international expatriates.
Overall Neighborhood Vibe
Puerto Madero can feel like you live “further” from the city, even though you can easily walk to Casa Rosada and the Microcenter (easier than most other neighborhoods). I think it feels further because Puerto Madero is so different from other Buenos Aires neighborhoods and it is physically separated from the city by a canal of water.
When you cross the bridge into Puerto Madero you feel like you’re in a new city. Quieter, more modern, greener and less congested. It almost feels like a suburb but right next to downtown!
If you’re moving to Buenos Aires for a more traditional vibe or traditional lifestyle then you may want to check out other neighborhoods such as Recoleta, Palermo or Belgrano. We lived in Recoleta for 2 years and decided we needed to move to a quieter neighborhood. And Puerto Madero was the perfect neighborhood for us. We enjoyed living in a quieter area but still able to go to other neighborhoods on the weekends.
Transportation
I don’t like leading with bad news but there is not much public transportation available in Puerto Madero. There are no subte (subway) stops. You would need to get off at the Plaza de Mayo stop in the Microcenter and walk across to Puerto Madero. Also, there are very few bus routes that run in Puerto Madero (I believe only one & it does not even go the entire length of the neighborhood).
If you don’t have access to a vehicle then living in Puerto Madero could feel isolating, depending on what you enjoy doing. However I believe many people who live in Puerto Madero work close enough to walk to work and everything else (grocery, restaurants, movies, shopping).
There are also always taxis and Remis available in Puerto Madero. And remember, taxis are very cheap in Buenos Aires. We would regularly use taxis on the weekend to go across the city to Palermo to eat at our favorite restaurants. But I found myself staying in Puerto Madro for the majority of the week because everything I needed was close by.
Parks/Green Space
One of my favorite parts about living in Puerto Madero is the amount of green space. Basically you feel like you’re living in a park. I think Puerto Madero is the only neighborhood in Buenos Aires that has more park and green spaces than buildings.
La Reserva Ecologica is an amazing reserve with over 10 miles of nature trails. It’s a large, quiet park where you can go to exercise, meditate or bird watch. Not to mention the views are gorgeous - the city on one side and Rio de la Plata on the other. See for yourself on this short video I created!
If you are looking for a relaxing area in Buenos Aires to live then Puerto Madero will likely fit your lifestyle. Or if you have small children or pets that would appreciate large parks then you should really check out Puerto Madero.
Along with parks, walking along the canal is a great place to get some cardio in, enjoy a dulce de leche ice cream or people watch.
Wondering if you’ll feel safe in Puerto Madero? Then you’ll find this video I created about safety in Buenos Aires helpful!
Stores/Goods Availability
While you can find most everything you need in Puerto Madero, you'll usually only find 1 or 2 shops of each thing. For example, there was only one ferreteria and one large grocery store (the others are very small and have limited selections). You’ll also find a meat store, bakery, pharmacies, veterinarians, etc. Everything you need - usually just 1 or 2 shop options. In other neighborhoods you would have several bakeries to choose from. But in Puerto Madero, there were only 2 bakeries.
You can also expect prices to be high in Puerto Madero. The stores know rents are high and if you can afford to live in Puerto Madero you can afford to pay a little more for your goods and services.
Another favorite part of Puerto Madero is the Farmers Market that is set up each Sunday morning. Get there early for the best selection of produce! Each week we would take our pups with us and fill up our rolling cart for another week of cooking!
Ready to move to Buenos Aires? Download this activity list with 50+ things you have to do when you’re in Buenos Aires to make sure you don’t miss anything!
Modern Architecture/Buildings
Puerto Madero was developed within the last 20 years. Because of that, the buildings in Puerto Madero are very modern looking compared to the rest of Buenos Aires.
I think this is where Puerto Madero draws a lot of criticism. When people visit Puerto Madero many say they think it “looks like any other modern city anywhere in the world”.
And at first glance I have to agree with them. Yes, Puerto Madero is filled with modern high-rise skyscrapers. Yes, the sidewalks and streets are wide and clean.
However, if you spend any significant amount of time in Puerto Madero you’ll see another side of the neighborhood. There are authentic food trucks where you can pick up a milanesa or provoleta. There are the typical neighborhood ferreterias and panaderias. There are countless great cafes to sit and enjoy a cup of coffee and people watching. There is a weekly Feria for people to buy goods from. You’ll see the infamous Buenos AIres dog walkers everyday.
All these things and others make you feel like you’re in Buenos Aires - not any other city in the world. I promise if you decide to move to Puerto Madero, you will still know and feel like you’re living in Buenos Aires.
The People of Puerto Madero
You will find many expats living in Puerto Madero. There are several international companies located in and around the neighborhood making Puerto Madero an ideal location for those company expats to live.
There are also many wealthy Argentines living in Puerto Madero. Walking around you’ll see luxury cars and expensive restaurants. You tend to see more wealthy people living in Puerto Madero due to the high rent prices.
During the weekdays, the neighborhood parks are quieter and a great place to relax. Also on weekdays many porteños drive into Puerto Madero to go to work so the streets line up with commuter vehicles and then empty out again after 18:00.
On weekends expect to have lots of party-goers come to the neighborhood to party at the food trucks next to La Reserva on Friday, Saturday and Sunday night (especially Sunday nights!). But during the weekend morning hours you’ll have the neighborhood to yourself to enjoy a peaceful walk.
While I understand Puerto Madero isn’t for everyone, I truly enjoyed living there. Yes, it is the most modern area of Buenos Aires but I promise you will still know you are living in Buenos Aires.
If you are seeking a more modern or quieter lifestyle in Buenos Aires then I definitely recommend checking out Puerto Madero. And if you’re ready to start your apartment search, check out this blog I wrote on How To Rent an Apartment in Buenos Aires.
Still have questions about living in Puerto Madero? Ask me in the comments below!
