Why You Should Visit an Estancia in Argentina
There are so many beautiful places to visit in Argentina. If you’re planning on being in Argentina for any amount of time, you have to stay at an Estancia. They’re a great place to take in the local culture, try amazing foods and get a break from the sightseeing circuit.
An estancia is a horse or cattle ranch, typically privately owned. But nowadays they’re moved from an actual working ranch to one that hosts guests. That’s not to say there aren’t still farm animals and crops that need to be tended to but the primary purpose isn’t to generate income through ranching but through hospitality.
We’ve been living in Buenos Aires for 2.5 years and have had the opportunity to stay in estancias in Cordoba, Salta and El Calafate. And today I want to share with you why you must book an estancia while you’re travelling around Argentina.
The Food
Food everywhere in Argentina is great but it seems especially good when you’re staying at an estancia. And if you’re interested in trying local foods on your vacation (which I’m sure you are!) then estancias are a great place to have classic Argentine food, like empanadas, but with a local twist. In Ushuaia we had empanadas that were filled with crabmeat but you can’t find those in Buenos Aires. In Bariloche, their empanadas were filled with river trout. And in the north, in Salta, the empanadas were filled with delicious cheese I haven’t had anywhere else. (Don’t tell anyone but I think the empanadas in Salta have been my favorite country-wide). So even if you’ve had a meal somewhere else in the country, you have to try it at your estancia. Chances are, they use local flavors to make it extra special.
And there’s the infamous parrilla, which everyone wants to have while they’re in Argentina. In Buenos Aires, you’ll see the open fires and meat grilling in restaurants but it’s nothing like what they do out in the countryside. Typically every Saturday night estancias will host a traditional parrilla for their guests. Even though we’re vegetarians, we have participated because it’s so special. Usually the parrilla they use is much larger than what you’ll find in the city restaurants and the selection of meats is greater. They will have all the cuts available to choose from with all the traditional sides too.
Since estancias are on such large pieces of land they’re usually also working farms with cows, sheep, goats, chickens, etc. So it’s literally farm to table food. And there’s always homemade bread made in-house at each meal.
If you’ve heard anything about Argentine foods you’ve probably also heard about the wine too. Yes, they’re famous for the Malbec (which is delicious) but there are also some other great varieties like Torrontes. The estancia kitchens will do an amazing job pairing the perfect local wines to compliment their foods. Most wines you can find in Buenos Aires but there are definitely smaller vineyard selections that you’ll only find out in the country.
So if you’re into food and interested in trying hyperlocal flavors, I think you’ll enjoy the time you spend at your estancia.
See a Different Side of Argentina
Buenos Aires is amazing but after walking and touring the city for a few days you’re probably going to be ready for a break. When that happens, an estancia will be your best friend. The low-key vibe is perfect for taking a break from all the action of the city. But you’ll still learn so much about the Argentine people - just in a different way. Estancias by definition are always outside of the city or town center. And the landscape backdrop is usually gorgeous. Argentina has the best views and most Estancias are set on beautiful acreage, some with views of mountains and rivers. In fact, all three estancias we’ve stayed at had views of the nearby mountains.
Life at the estancia is at a slower pace so the people you’ll meet there will have plenty of time to sit with you and explain the history of the area and recommend nearby activities. And you’ll easily get to know the other guests and the staff as there’s usually less than 10 rooms on the property. This creates a more intimate experience with other guests, which will be a mix of local Argentines escaping for the weekend and global tourists.
In Buenos Aires, there are so many European-style buildings to admire but at estancias you’ll get a glimpse into the past in a more traditional way. The property and local history is so important at each estancia that as soon as you walk in you’ll see relics from the past and photos depicting life a hundred years ago - how gauchos ruled the land.
Gauchos are the Argentine name for cowboys. Every estancia has at least one in-house gaucho. And the gauchos that work there will be anxious to share their knowledge with you. You will learn so much about the local population and its history without even leaving the property.
If you’re really interested in learning as much as possible about Argentina and its people, a visit to Buenos Aires alone will not be enough. A visit out to the countryside will help give you a full picture of the people that live here and their traditions.
The Activities
Don’t worry, just because you’re going out to a large ranch doesn’t mean you’ll be bored. Far from it. Every time we go to an estancia, we always leave thinking, “Next time, we’ll have to do ___ activity. We just didn’t have enough time.”
Horseback riding is a classic estancia activity in the afternoons. Usually they’ll have two or three hour guided tours through the property. You’ll be able to enjoy rivers, forests, mountain views and wide open spaces for galloping. Don’t worry if you don’t have any experience, the gauchos are there to help guide you. If you are more experienced with horses they’ll usually let you take them for a solo ride.
A pool is pretty much mandatory at most properties. Cooling afternoon dips are perfect after a big physical activity like horseback riding. And if it’s wintertime, don’t worry it’s just as relaxing to read a book poolside.
An activity that’s also fun for the kiddos is helping with the farm chores. Only estancias can make chores fun! In Cordoba at El Colibri we helped milk cows, pick up eggs from the hens and feed the other farm animals like sheep, goats and llamas. There was also an option each morning to go with the gauchos to help pick ripe fruits and vegetables around the farm. When you’re finished, you take your full basket into the kitchen and they’ll prepare you a breakfast with everything you picked.
The estancia also acts as a great home base if you’re interested in touring around the surrounding area. The front desk will always have some nearby activities and sightseeing stops they can recommend to you. When we stayed at House of Jasmines outside Salta, Argentina, we took a full day to go tour of the Hill of the Seven Colors, Purmamarca and Salinas Grandes, all put together by the front desk.
And if “activity” isn’t your thing then just relaxing on the property all day is perfectly acceptable too. Lounging all day on the back porch or reading a book in the sun taking in the views between meals are all ideal estancia “activities”.
The Argentine estancia of your choice will have the perfect way for you to pass the days.
Have You Booked It Yet??
If the food section alone wasn’t enough, I hope this article helps you decide that staying in an estancia is a must do when you visit Argentina. The food, the hospitality, the activities and pure relaxation in a new environment keep Andrew and I going back as often as possible to a new one. Argentina hospitality is at its best when you’re a guest at an estancia.
